Oils Aren't Oils

Bump,

the often-mentioned Shell Rotella, a (good!) diesel oil, does basically same as the Delo (a multigrade), however Rotella is a single (mono) grade. Nothing wrong with if the correct viscosity is choosen, and this depends on the ambient temp. I'd not recommend it when you're up in the cold or snow somewhere, but anywhere reasonable or warmish it'll be fine. It also classifies as recommended oil for the Pig, same like all oils I mentioned so btw. A diesel oil differs from a petrol oil only in its ability to clean & keep-clean an engine's internals, quite beneficial I think, especially when out in the dust. But also, these days there's often little differences left between these two oils, and most commercial oils may be used in both engines. The Helix Ultra for instance, pour it in anything you like, it's bound to better the spec a manufacturer prescribes - and keep in mind they always prescribe minimum spec's! As far as the gearbox is concerned, especially the synth excels in its VI properties, but also the mineral oil is a superb one, hence these oils will not be sheared to water like cheap oils will be.

Some here like to push the boundaries though, and I'd like to hear the tears of the chap who'll run straight veggie-oil like Canola in the Pig. It'll carbonize in no-time, and will seize the its internals. Pls post a pic?

Rotella is diesel oil and cycle oil. You dont think it is cycle oil? Right on the back of the jug is says, meets the performance requirements of: ACEA E9, Mack EO-O, Priemium Plus Caterpiller ECF-3, ECF-2, ECF-1A, Cummings CES 20081, DDC93K218, MB Approval 228.31, MAN M 3575, MTU Cat 2, Volvo VDS-4, DEUTZ DQC III-05, JASO DH-2, (Which I have no idea what any of that means) and last but not least and I do know what this means JASO MA. Which means you can put it in your bike.
I run Rotella 15W-40 in both my sons bikes and my wifes bike CRF70, XR100, CRF150 and soon to be a XRR for me. I run 5W-40 synthetic rotella in my R6, my suzuki scooter and my 95 Jeep Wrangler. I also run the T5 10w-30 rotella in my 2009 silverado 1500. Its has the best additive package for the price and you can buy it anywhere. I have thought about mixing the 15W-40 with the synthetic 5W-40 to get a 10W-40 oil but I dont think it would make much difference. If you wanted to get really picky you could run the 5w when cold the mixed oil in the spring and fall and the 15w in the heat of the summer. Im probobly that crazy but I dont have the time or give a crap to do it. Im not brand loyal or anything and not suggesting that rotella is the end all best oil in the world but it is fine in a bike, affordable, available in big jugs so you save by buying in bulk and it is readily avalable just about anywhere. Win win for me since Im changing oil in so any bikes. They started taking out zink and phosphoreus in oil because of cat converters in new cars but it is still in diesel and bike oil so I stay away from car oil. Ps hello from Tennessee Im a newbee and I love my watermelon helmet. I wish I had a real helmet like that, i would wear it when Im on my scooter.

Yo Roy,

change that watermelon helmet if you like, you can put on a nice pic of your choice.
Your small (son's) bikes you put 15Wsomething in? That's too thick I think, you need 10W or less, but check the booklets.
Jaso is a japanese-only spec, and many manufacturers do not bother with getting this in addition as it is a costly process. But if it's on there too - nice, but only that.

I thought only the second number was what was important except when the weather is cold then the first number needs to be lower. For example 5w is recommended when its cold and 10w or 15w is fine any other time.

First number indicates the viscosity when the oil's cold, and you want it thin then, you want it to flow.
The second number indicates the viscosity when it's warm - but mind, at that warm temperature it has become thinner, more viscous, quite a lot a lot in fact, so I'd say that number's less important in making up your choice.