How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  river on Fri Oct 30, 2009 5:36 am

Thanks very much, ordered one today. I need to get the brake light switch thing sorted out. People reference and "oil pressure switch." What's with that, what does oil pressure have to do with brake lights? Anyway I think I have one, there is a switch near right rear motor area sticking up with two wires, seller said it was banjo switch for brake light. But how do you make the front brake lever trigger the brake light?

Thanks.

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Hydraulic Brake Switch

Post  Backwoods Boogie on Fri Oct 30, 2009 4:00 pm

river wrote:But how do you make the front brake lever trigger the brake light?

If you really need it, you'll have to replace the front banjo bolt with one that has a pressure switch and wiring harness on it.

Baja Designs sells them.........

https://www.bajadesigns.com/NET/P-120104/Switch%2c+Hydraulic+Brake%2c+Nissin

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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  river on Sat Oct 31, 2009 6:01 am

Thanks, that looks like what I have. Hope it works.
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  river on Sat Oct 31, 2009 6:26 am

Thanks Bump. The HID is more because I will ride on the road at night, not off road (at least not in current plans). Neither of my road bikes (VTX 1800C, ST1300) have adequate stock lighting, and I've gotten aftermarket stuff for the ST. But I'm now thinking the Diablo is going to be too much for oncoming drivers unless I can adjust it to shoot pretty low. I am gathering that I need to get the stator and regulator/rectifier/battery, since horns and light bulbs (speedo backlight, LED blinkers, tailight) need DC (or at least that's what I think at the moment, been asking sales guys lots of questions. Maybe I should get the halogen 8", and augment it with an HID from wally world. Somebody on ADVrider posted a pretty good looking 4" HID from Checkers.

Yeah, the MR-16 HID helmet light at Trail Tech seems great, and I'd like one of those, but for street riding, probably not now, I'm going broke. If night off road riding becomes attractive, maybe.

What will you make your dash out of? Sounds like a great idea, soon as I read it I wanted one. Or is the tackle box the dash? Couldn't picture dash and box. But would be good in case you get hungry near a stream out on the trail.
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Dash & Stuff

Post  Bump on Sat Oct 31, 2009 8:38 pm

I don't see this talked about so I'll jump. There are two different lights from BD. So if you get HID or halogen there are still two different lights. That's why you see the Team Honda bikes have two lights. One is a flood and the other is a spot. So if you only go with one you want the flood usually. If you get the spot you'll be reaching way out there but the up close stuff will be missing. Spot might be more unfriendly to oncoming drivers too. It's my opinion that blinding oncoming drivers is not in your healthy best interest.
The Diablo is another way of solving this problem. HID for in tight and other for long view. I spoke with BD about mounting two of the Daiblo style cannons, one on each side, of an 8" race light a couple of years ago and they liked the idea. I called last year they said they were gonna make it. But I don't see it anywhere. I reckon the economy has put a few things on the wish list instead of the to do list...
BTW, with a race light of any kind on there no one is gonna see your blinkers oncoming so please be careful.

Here's the carbon fly box I bought. It's pretty trick and the finish and all is very good. http://www.carbonflybox.com/608_003.htm Neodymium magnets hold is shut.
Then I was gonna make one of these fuse blocks from Blue Sea work inside the carbon box: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/177683/377%20710/0/fuse/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=fuse&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=fuse&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=295
Then I was gonna bring in wires through holes sealed with those O ring style grommets you see in situations like this.
Then I was gonna mount my Vapor on the lid of the box and at an angle that makes it easier to read. You can buy a lot of scrap CF on eBay and it mills easily. I had some other ideas and wrote it all down somewhere but you get the idea. I plan on keeping this bike indefinitely so every year I plan on sorting something out properly. I went overkill on several things. I'd like to build a 2nd bike that is just what is necessary. No frills.

If it was me I'd just start with the bulb upgrade for the OEM light and go from there. If you aren't riding offroad then there's little use for the intight HID stuff IMHO. I dunno what size the light is in the OEM fairing but I was noticing it's about the size and shape of a lot of automotive headlights. Like the ones on my 1991 pickup;
So why can't you just go to a junkyard and find a light about the same size that has hi and low beams and make it work? JC Whitney used to sell a switch that turned on hi and low at once. Personally I'd be scared of some part failing and losing the whole light while at speed somewhere. But I don't know much about electricity so I worry that way.

Personally, I don't like the Trailtech lights. Some guys do. They are felony ugly to me. The BD stuff is ugly too but it has a sort of industrial race look with symmetry that grows on me. Plus the BD stuff is ubiquitous and so I can find it used very cheap. I bought a new 8" HID BD racelight for $50 a while back. It's for a truck but still the light is the same. With a lot of the upgrade stuff I just like to stay in the mainstream. That allows me to change my mind and direction with a minimum of pain and dollar loss. Sometimes I even make money.

I really like your mission to improve the bike. But even stock you get out here and Ride Red Mister!!!


river wrote:Thanks Bump. The HID is more because I will ride on the road at night, not off road (at least not in current plans). Neither of my road bikes (VTX 1800C, ST1300) have adequate stock lighting, and I've gotten aftermarket stuff for the ST. But I'm now thinking the Diablo is going to be too much for oncoming drivers unless I can adjust it to shoot pretty low. I am gathering that I need to get the stator and regulator/rectifier/battery, since horns and light bulbs (speedo backlight, LED blinkers, tailight) need DC (or at least that's what I think at the moment, been asking sales guys lots of questions. Maybe I should get the halogen 8", and augment it with an HID from wally world. Somebody on ADVrider posted a pretty good looking 4" HID from Checkers.

Yeah, the MR-16 HID helmet light at Trail Tech seems great, and I'd like one of those, but for street riding, probably not now, I'm going broke. If night off road riding becomes attractive, maybe.

What will you make your dash out of? Sounds like a great idea, soon as I read it I wanted one. Or is the tackle box the dash? Couldn't picture dash and box. But would be good in case you get hungry near a stream out on the trail.
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  river on Sun Nov 01, 2009 12:43 am

OK, I'm heading over to autozone with the oem "fairing" and headlight to see if I can get a 35w hi/lo bulb for it. Woulda saved me lots of grief.

However, I did anticipate your other idea, and picked up a headlight reflector and bulb I can duck tape in the fairing with hi/low beam. I already got one on ebay but now know it's a sealed beam so won't work for the long term. They didn't have a decent switch so may still have to get the BD one, or maybe I can find something on Ebay.

Finally had a little time to back the puppy out of the truck and fire it up. Got it warm, oil level is fine and it is brand new oil. Read on the XRR FAQ (one of them) how to put the dipstick in, so straightened it out and put it back in. Went for a ride, whee. The ST and VTX are both supposed to do 0-60 in 3.5 sec. This feels faster, kinda scary. Had to work to keep the front wheel on the tarmac. This is going to be fun! Maybe I can truck it out to the desert tomorrow.

Man, nice truck, and nice driveway. That should hold a few bikes. How do you find time to ride, with that grass as green and manicured as that? Here in the desert, we don't even try, landscaping is a colored rock and cactus deal.

So where did you score the 8" BD? Occurs to me I should find some busy 4wd forums and watch there. The mounting frame for XRR is cheap.
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  Bump on Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:47 am

river wrote: OK, I'm heading over to autozone with the oem "fairing" and headlight to see if I can get a 35w hi/lo bulb for it. Woulda saved me lots of grief.
Good on ya! Save that money for some grip and forearm exercises to hold on to your new beast.

However, I did anticipate your other idea, and picked up a headlight reflector and bulb I can duck tape in the fairing with hi/low beam. I already got one on ebay but now know it's a sealed beam so won't work for the long term. They didn't have a decent switch so may still have to get the BD one, or maybe I can find something on Ebay.
This guy has some nice stuff. Machining is pretty good. Nice guy too. Many options. Some of it is a little bulky for my aerospace taste but definitely better quality than BD. http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=perchswitches&sid=x7077fdl56e5ed3z6nvt2wup86ua7h9m

Finally had a little time to back the puppy out of the truck and fire it up. Got it warm, oil level is fine and it is brand new oil. Read on the XRR FAQ (one of them) how to put the dipstick in, so straightened it out and put it back in. Went for a ride, whee. The ST and VTX are both supposed to do 0-60 in 3.5 sec. This feels faster, kinda scary. Had to work to keep the front wheel on the tarmac. This is going to be fun! Maybe I can truck it out to the desert tomorrow.
I gotta agree. Mine spooks me on asphalt. It just hooks up too well and there is no weight up there. In the dirt a little body english and the rear wheel is spinning but no such finesse on the street! Mine has the HRC cam and the Team Honda head and there is no way I can roll it all on in first through third.

Man, nice truck, and nice driveway. That should hold a few bikes.
Thanks! It does. Mainly it pulls a boat. As my wife likes to say, "It passes everything but a gas station!" Actually, if we drive 55, air off, no jack rabbit starts or that stuff, we can get 17. Kick the speed up to what everyone else is driving, turn the AC to Santa's Village and we're at 10 easy.
We looked at new trucks about five years ago. When did everybody decide they couldn't go out to play without a 4WD turbo diesel crew cab dually with 22s? I missed that meeting I guess. A new trick rig is like $50K! I ain't paying $50K for a pickup. EVER! I'd pay $50K for this: http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/showthread.php?p=302050#post302050 Read the long description about 7 posts down.

Anyway, we decided to just rebuild and update our ol' trusty dually. For me, it's the sweet spot on modern cars. It's got a platform GM made for almost 20 years so it's all sorted out. Plus, it's got a little electronics, like fuel injection and strong ignition, but not so much electronics that I can't work on it. So every year we rebuild a major system. Brakes, tranny, and so forth. Three years ago a friend and I made a complete 4-Link rear end for it. Threw away all that 18th century leaf spring crap. Airbags all around, 4-link rear, dual air compressors, 10 gallon air tank, control of each air bag, gauges, and so forth. We cut a long piece of steel plate in a particular fading shape and welded it into the rear half of the frame. Right now we are working on fabricating a rear sway bar for it. The guys at Speedway Engineering are gonna help us. Once we get it all sorted out we'll put an automatically leveling system on it. Our goal was exceeding a 5,000lb carry and a 10,000 tow rating.
Next project for it is a completely new front air intake area. I want to double the size of the A/C heat exchanger thing. Then go in with a much better fan for the inside the cab stuff. I got jobber on a top of the line Setrab dual fan tranny cooler too. So I think we're gonna work with a sheetmetal guy top make a Stainless front piece to hold the radiator and everything. I hate cooling problems and I want the A/C to blow ice cold even in Parker in July when it's 125+.


But the truck rebuild goes slow. I found my dad's old boat that I grew up skiing behind. It was in tatters. The guy selling it was going to prison and he needed cash. He lied all up and down in the ad. In any case we're a long ways into this restoration. I'm kinda NOT RICH so we really look for used parts and good deals on stuff. I'm not a low-baller but I cam patient and will wait for a great price. A couple of years ago I found a 1969 Reynolds aluminum BBC out of the UOP Shadow DN2 Can-Am car. Bare block but with all teh bottom end parts in boxes. Best way to buy an engine IMHO. We will be at a stalling point soon on the boat because i gotta find period correct mechanical injection, magnesium dry sump pan, and so forth. But we changed the trailer to tandem (it's a 1967 Zieman with curved frame rails-very rare and original), update the front of the trailer, and so forth. Here's some pictures that are about two years old: http://s720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/PioneerRider/Cold%20Duck/

How do you find time to ride, with that grass as green and manicured as that?
Ha! I don't ride much lately (I used to ride every other weekend in the winter) but that's not the reason. My wife and I gave up on having kids after many years, sold everything and moved to Napa Valley from Iowa By The Sea, errr, San Diego. And then suddenly we had two. So it's difficult for me to break away-they are one and just turned four. I plan trips but then cancel. I hate being a flake. Last trip I went on my certifiable mother-in-law came out to help. I called home after the first day of a three day ride. My wife says, "Everything's OK now. But we had to take Ava to the hospital. Mom dropped her face first onto the concrete."
That place is actually my 94 year old grandmother's place in Grant's Pass, OR. I try to go up there every several months and do some work for her. Last time I took 6 truck loads to the dump. The last husband she buried never threw anything away... But it's always something up there. A building needs painting. Concrete needs powerwashing. I'm not sure if we own houses or they own us.


Here in the desert, we don't even try, landscaping is a colored rock and cactus deal.
We'd have a lot more water if we all practiced that! I really like NM. When we moved to Napa it was with the idea that we'd move every five years to somewhere in the world we really wanted to live. NM was next. Then kids and the whole thing changed. Once the kids get out of Britax car seats then we'll redo the whole interior of the dually. They thrash it. Their seats have just destroyed the foam and everything else in the rear seat. And they like to poke holes in the headliner. And so it goes. Kids are like puppies; you gotta budget about $100 a month for all the stuff they destroy, errr, play with.

So where did you score the 8" BD?
I got my HD light from a well known guy who is a reseller of BD and got it for like A LOT off. He made me promise not to tell anyone because according to him they frown on that. The 2nd BD one that is for a truck I got off a forum. I think it was AdvRider. I posted a WTB ad on there and this guy said it had a 8" Halogen but it was for a truck. I said, "Great. Good luck selling it." He wanted like $125 for it. I just kept saying no thanks but he persisted in lowering the price until he said, would I please buy it for $50. So I did. AdvRider is weird in that way, and a few other ways. There is a lot of oddball stuff sold on there. But there is definitely not a lot of real dirt bike stuff on there. But when it does show up it's often and a steep discount. A guy was gonna sell me a perfect XRR frame with the critter fix for less than $200 awhile back. I don't need a frame though. The damn site is so full of posers. All this tough guy and inmate and middle finger crap. It's all so phony and hollow. I think the real tough guys, the guys who were some of the very few who ever were cool, guys like Steve McQueen, Frank Sinatra, or even fictional characters like Jim Bronson would never be on AdvRider for the social hour every day. It's such a phony "pub atmosphere". The Rider Reports and the classifieds are the site. I think perhaps HUBB is much more serious, if a little smaller. There's a lot less information on Hubb but you don't have to wade through hours of BS to get something useful. Just try getting something useful from the GPS section on which one to buy.

Occurs to me I should find some busy 4wd forums and watch there. The mounting frame for XRR is cheap.
Be patient and one will show up on TT, AdvRider or somewhere else. Get the whole unit that way.
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  river on Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:19 am

Woo, nice boat. You're way ahead of me on toys. I would love to drive one of those but I've never driven a boat, unless paddling a canoe counts. Yeah, ADVrider is kinda overdone on the rugged outdoor adventurer motif, but if you think that's bad, hang out on cruiser forums, or if you really want it intense, an HD forum. Now there's a bunch of manly men, and don't suggest otherwise.

Well, consider yourself blessed. Think how bored you'd be without those new kids. I'm an old bachelor and usually wish I weren't. But I have fun.

Some progress, though my "do it cheap" approach is falling by the wayside. I bought an L headlamp, frame, harnass, and speedo on Ebay, and missed the darn headlight switch becuase of a glitch. Rats that's what I really wanted. I also found, by googling, a BD Tecate on a six month old classified ad on some forum. I called him for the heck of it, now have purchased a used-for-one-race Tecate for kickstart bikes, for $160 plus shipping. I got the L harness on Ebay because I expected to get the switch, so would have had a harness, switch, speedo, and headlamp from an L. I would stick a big bulb in there and get a stock L fairing, but with the Tecate coming, maybe the stock L headlamp will stick in there. Or maybe I'll use the MR16 for low and the HID for bright. I read several places it will blind people. Anyway, got horn at the junkyard, and my LED tail light showed up. Now I need to order the rest of what I need from BD and find some time to figure out what I'm going to do and to put it together. Guess I'll need the stator, regulator (though I wonder if the one on the L harness will work, it's included), battery, and maybe their switch. A new switch from Honda is cheaper than BD's, and I much prefer the rocker hi/lo switch, I like to keep it consistent between my bikes. We'll see. Will call BD tomorrow. The really good news, was worried whether I could get the R insured. Called this morning and my full coverage card is waiting.

I was gonna try to ride my dirt bike in the dirt yesterday, by the time I found a place it was too dark to get it off the truck. But it's only a couple miles away, and looks like lots of bikes and offroaders use it, with lots of great trails through the desert. Work has gotten so intense this week, I can't find time for anything.
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  river on Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:30 am

BTW, Bump, what does it look like when the right footpeg problem is starting to happen? Just for reference. I'm sure mine is OK. It has IMS (IMF?) pegs, they are really beefy. I will get the fix.

Also, what does the stock shifter look like? Mine is aluminum alloy or steel, and the little paddle folds back.
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  modette on Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:08 pm

Bump wrote:If he suggest diesel motor oil, that's a red flag.

I'm a little offended by this, I been using Rotella in my street bikes for a long time now, and use it in the BRP too. hell even Shells Rotella forum has a motorcycle section because so many people use it. As long as the oil is not energy conserving there is no proof otherwise it will and or does effect the bike.
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  modette on Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:10 pm

If you need two 12.9 Class bolts for the right foot peg (as they tend to bend over time and can break) I bought a box of them from McMaster-Carr and can part with a few, PM me.
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  modette on Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:17 pm

river wrote:BTW, Bump, what does it look like when the right footpeg problem is starting to happen? Just for reference. I'm sure mine is OK. It has IMS (IMF?) pegs, they are really beefy. I will get the fix.

Also, what does the stock shifter look like? Mine is aluminum alloy or steel, and the little paddle folds back.

It is the two bolts that hold the foot peg assembly into the frame, remove them and see if they are stretched, and or slightly bent. I know mine were. This is a safety issue and you should replace the bolts ASAP. I used 12.9 class Hex Bolts, they are very very hard. I got them from McMaster-Carr for like $12 for a box of 10, if you want I have some left, PM me.

I gave two to my brother in-law for his BRP too. They work great.
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Go ahead and use whatever you want

Post  Bump on Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:40 pm

I'll ride with you, help you work on your bike, buy you a beer... But I won't be buying a bike from you.

Why in the world you are offended is a mystery to me. C'mon, we are talking about motor oil not your mom.

In any case, I just learned a lot more about this. Motorcycle oil has to be different because the engine shares oil with the transmission. The gears in the transmission break down the additives in oil very fast in a process called Oil Shear. Motorcycle oil has specific additives just for this reason. By law cars can't have as much of the additives. Something to do with the catalytic converter I think.

Sorry, but Shell's PR Department ain't gonna be my basis for making any decisions. Unless of course they hire me to write PR... I've written enough copy and PR for companies to know that most write their own testimonials and get their employees to create content on their forums under assumed names. Sony got caught a few years ago having its employees write reviews of their films posing as unbiased reviewers.
My wife used to run a magnet company. People would come in all the time, old people usually, and tell her their medical magnets had worn out and they needed new ones. After awhile she decided to give them some peace of mind. So a guy from the warehouse would come in, take the magnets back to a clean room where electronic and ceramic magnets were modified, hang out for five minutes and bring them back. "Ma'am, they are recharged and test at 100%. You will feel the difference. They should last another 10 years if you use them every day. And there's no charge of course." People always noticed the difference right away.

If Honda says use the oil then I use it. Their manufacturing tolerances are among the best in the world and they always strive for that. Honda oil and air filters are the very best too. You can use aftermarket filters that flow more air. But they do so because they trap less dirt by letting more air go through them faster. You change your filters often because you lose sticky surface for dirt to land and stick on. I can tell you firsthand that the money you save on aftermarket filters, or the tenth of a HP increase you'll never notice won't be balanced by the chipped intake valves you'll be running.

Google this, "OIL SHEAR IN MOTORCYCLE TRANSMISSIONS" and get an afternoon's worth of reading. Motorcycles that share oil in transmissions and
engines SHOULD NOT use oil not designed for that. Or to be more grammatically correct-Motorcycles should ALWAYS use motorcycle oil. The tranny gears break down the polymer additives and thus reduce viscosity.

There are lots of people doing lots of things to their rides. We all do this. It's important to remember that conventional logic and common sense used to tell us the earth is flat and the center of the universe.

I grew up in LA and have had some friends who became successful mechanics in racing. One of my neighbors was a test rider for Yamaha in the 70s and 80s. I never really understood why but it was just understood that one was suppose to use motorcycle oil in motorcycles. I never questioned it. Recently Gene schooled me on oil shear in transmissions.

I started reading here because it seemed the most scientific to me: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

A Pennzoil engineer once told me never to use multi-viscosity oil like 20-50. He said always use single viscosity oils as they were much stronger than these compromise oils that imply people can run their oil all year long without changing it. He also said not to run racing oils in cars. He said they weren't engineered to last more than a race.

Geez, how did I get off on such a rant?

modette wrote:
Bump wrote:If he suggest diesel motor oil, that's a red flag.

I'm a little offended by this, I been using Rotella in my street bikes for a long time now, and use it in the BRP too. hell even Shells Rotella forum has a motorcycle section because so many people use it. As long as the oil is not energy conserving there is no proof otherwise it will and or does effect the bike.


Last edited by Bump on Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  river on Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:31 pm

modette wrote:
river wrote:BTW, Bump, what does it look like when the right footpeg problem is starting to happen? Just for reference. I'm sure mine is OK. It has IMS (IMF?) pegs, they are really beefy. I will get the fix.

Also, what does the stock shifter look like? Mine is aluminum alloy or steel, and the little paddle folds back.

It is the two bolts that hold the foot peg assembly into the frame, remove them and see if they are stretched, and or slightly bent. I know mine were. This is a safety issue and you should replace the bolts ASAP. I used 12.9 class Hex Bolts, they are very very hard. I got them from McMaster-Carr for like $12 for a box of 10, if you want I have some left, PM me.

I gave two to my brother in-law for his BRP too. They work great.

Thanks very much, modette. I just got this R a week ago, and am slowly getting to looking at everything. The pegs and bolts seem very tight, and I don't see any cracks. I thought this problem involved cracks somewhere, in the frame?

If I turn out to need the bolts and you still have some left at the time I'll take you up on it. Some mods (uncorking, brake light...) have been done so maybe the peg problem has already been fixed. The pegs are IMS.

If it's just the matter of two bolts, I wonder why the kritter fix involves other parts too, do you know?

Thanks!
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  modette on Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:42 pm

river wrote:
If it's just the matter of two bolts, I wonder why the kritter fix involves other parts too, do you know?

Thanks!

I do not know, what I had heard was about the bolts...is their another problem! I'm interested to know if someone has any other information.
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one problem two fixes

Post  Bump on Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:50 pm

Colorado and others are being delicate with you on this. Nice guys for sure! He even offered you the bolts!!!

There are two fixes for this problem. One is to drill out the bolt holes and use larger stronger bolts. This is the cheaper less desirable fix.

The other is the Critter style fix. That fix involves welding a bracket onto the peg that acts as a load distributor and wraps over the frame there to the other side of the fastener. It it more expensive, a little over $100, but much much safer and more robust.

This isn't something you wait for a problem to develop with. Unless you are x-raying your peg assembly after every ride to look for metal problems.

Remember: Team Honda broke titanium foot pegs in this area so something is going on there that is bad. That peg and the airbox are Honda's two real engineering mistakes on the bike.

Quit pussyfooting around on this.



modette wrote:
river wrote:
If it's just the matter of two bolts, I wonder why the kritter fix involves other parts too, do you know?

Thanks!

I do not know, what I had heard was about the bolts...is their another problem! I'm interested to know if someone has any other information.


Last edited by Bump on Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:56 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Bump
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  river on Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:45 am

Definitely going to get the fix done. Am I going to have to find somebody that can weld aluminum? Does the Precision Concepts fix also involve welding?

Thanks....
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river
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Right Side Peg Fix

Post  Backwoods Boogie on Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:57 am

The Animal House Designs aka "Kritter Fix" already has the tab welded on. Kris just requires your old one to be sent in as a core.

The Precision Concepts mod also has the tab welded on and sends them out completed. (No core required)
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  river on Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:09 am

Backwoods Boogie wrote:The Animal House Designs aka "Kritter Fix" already has the tab welded on. Kris just requires your old one to be sent in as a core.

The Precision Concepts mod also has the tab welded on and sends them out completed. (No core required)

Thanks much....
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river
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My suggestion

Post  Bump on Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:00 pm

Personally, I like doing business with the small guys to keep them innovating and providing rich ideas for the large companies to steal. But in this case you might consider getting it from Precision Concepts so you can open a dialog with Diane there. Then, in the future, you have access to them for all kinds of questions. Make sense? They have helped me a lot. They are no nonsense there but very helpful.

river wrote:
Backwoods Boogie wrote:The Animal House Designs aka "Kritter Fix" already has the tab welded on. Kris just requires your old one to be sent in as a core.

The Precision Concepts mod also has the tab welded on and sends them out completed. (No core required)

Thanks much....
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  river on Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:03 pm

I agree that's a good strategy typically I'd follow but the price difference is pretty significant. This all started out as an exercise in frugality getting a dirt bike, but it's getting tougher....getting the tecate for 160 helps though.
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

Post  river on Fri Nov 06, 2009 8:03 am

What grease for all the spots you said I should grease? Only thing I have handy is white stuff I got for my truck wheel bearings.

Also, it likes to die if I let it idle when cold. Think it's just the idle speed setting, or could that mean something else?

Thanks again....
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Grease

Post  Bump on Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:28 pm

I like to use Marine Grease. Since Honda doesn't really grease their bikes from the factory I am not too worried abut their specs. If you know someone in the Navy they have this really good stuff that is loaded with lead.

Geez I'm terrible with carbs. Anyone???


river wrote:What grease for all the spots you said I should grease? Only thing I have handy is white stuff I got for my truck wheel bearings.

Also, it likes to die if I let it idle when cold. Think it's just the idle speed setting, or could that mean something else?

Thanks again....
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Re: How do I tell if a used XRR is a good one?

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