Spokes/rims/trueing and tubeless conversion

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Spokes/rims/trueing and tubeless conversion

Post  Chris_w_65 on Wed Aug 12, 2015 5:25 pm

I noticed my front rim was not center between my forks, it needed to move 2mm to the right. It doesn't sound like a lot but there was about 9mm gap on the left and 13mm on the right (bear in mind my bike is a motard conversion)

I borrowed a spoke spanner and put the rim (without tyre) back into the forks to use them as a wheel truing stand - I loosened all the spokes on the left by 1/4 turn and tightened all on the right by 1/4 turn and my rim is nice and center now Bananatool Bananatool Bananatool

I will let you guys know how my ghetto tubeless conversion on the front wheel goes....
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Re: Spokes/rims/trueing and tubeless conversion

Post  Chris_w_65 on Wed Aug 12, 2015 5:53 pm

Please would a kind volunteer with  standard rear wheel in his/her BRP measure (with a vernier) from the outside of the swingarm on each side to the lip of the wheel rim? I know you guys have skinny wheels compared to mine but I can then work out if the swingarm is symmetrical or wider on the swingarm side.

I get 66mm on the left and 61mm on the right
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Re: Spokes/rims/trueing and tubeless conversion

Post  Chris_w_65 on Thu Aug 13, 2015 7:10 pm

Did my front tubeless conversion today - Sealer must cure and I will test tomorrow or Saturday
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Re: Spokes/rims/trueing and tubeless conversion

Post  BuRP on Fri Aug 14, 2015 9:05 am

I know you want/will have a fat rear slick/tyre, and some chaps have reported the chain to rub the tyre in the past.
If it were me doing this then I'd build the bike absolutely centered ie wheels perfectly in the middle, and then measure what tyre-width I could get away with. If 'too skinny' then I'd shim both sprockets outward so the chain would just clear the tyre. Mind, if you'll go this way realize that the chain should, sortof, still run over the swingarm's slider, you don't want to  rub your swinger down - and minor abrasion you'll have to live with anyway.
On this, you have a small rear sprocket (to cater for a small wheel), and this will cause the chain to rub here more... so I'd start with a 16T front as that will lift the chainline a bit, a bit more than your current 15T - and yes, they exist, scratch around pls. Oh, no, no case saver possible for this size I think, but maybe I'm wrong here.
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Re: Spokes/rims/trueing and tubeless conversion

Post  Chris_w_65 on Fri Aug 14, 2015 10:46 am

BuRP wrote:I know you want/will have a fat rear slick/tyre, and some chaps have reported the chain to rub the tyre in the past.
If it were me doing this then I'd build the bike absolutely centered ie wheels perfectly in the middle, and then measure what tyre-width I could get away with. If 'too skinny' then I'd shim both sprockets outward so the chain would just clear the tyre. Mind, if you'll go this way realize that the chain should, sortof, still run over the swingarm's slider, you don't want to  rub your swinger down - and minor abrasion you'll have to live with anyway.
On this, you have a small rear sprocket (to cater for a small wheel), and this will cause the chain to rub here more... so I'd start with a 16T front as that will lift the chainline a bit, a bit more than your current 15T - and yes, they exist, scratch around pls. Oh, no, no case saver possible for this size I think, but maybe I'm wrong here.

To space the rear sprocket out is a project on its own (which I will explain when i see you

I would still be interested to know if the standard rim sits center in the swingarm - Only Honda knows if the swingarm is symmetrical or not.
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Re: Spokes/rims/trueing and tubeless conversion

Post  Chris_w_65 on Sat Aug 15, 2015 6:22 am

So far, so good - Pumped up to 3.6 bar and no leakage at the spokes

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Re: Spokes/rims/trueing and tubeless conversion

Post  Chris_w_65 on Sun Aug 16, 2015 7:15 pm

The best way I can see to space the sprockets out...
Space rear sprocket 5mm with a CNC spacer
Use a Kymco 250 Quad sprocket and machine off 3mm from the face to give a 5mm offset from OEM sprocket (the sprocket will then be 12mm wide compared to the stock 13.5mm wide so I doubt it will chew the countershaft like an XR650L does with it's 6mm wide sprocket). - I still need to confirm this sprocket will fit but the dimensions on paper look right apart from the lock plate hole spacing but that is easy to solve.
Weld up holes for chain slider and relocate 5mm out as well as small locating lug at front of slider.
Most important - Cut off both lugs for lower chain slider and move them out 5mm - Without this mod there is no chance of using a 5mm spacer on the rear sprocket.

See 2099 and 2128 below



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Re: Spokes/rims/trueing and tubeless conversion

Post  Chris_w_65 on Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:16 pm

New tyres for my piggy - Bridgestone Battlax BT090 110/70 17 and 150/60 17

Front is fitted already, rear can go on tomorrow or Wednesday as I just converted the rear to tubeless and the sealer needs to cure

Still waiting for someone to measure if their OEM rear wheel sits center in the swingarm Rolling Eyes
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