Stator output

Hi to all,

I've been rewiring my dual-sport kit, as it was a mess before (and is very slightly better now) and I can't get 12V DC out of the Pig anywhere. I have the North American model (of course), and I found out that it used AC power to power the headlight and taillight. I put in a rectifier/regulator to convert the stator output to 12V DC and am getting very strange voltage readings at the rectifier output. Essentially the voltage is bouncing around between about 4.5V and 11V when the bike is at dead idle, then when I rev the motor the voltage output appears to drop to around 2.5 volts and steady a bit.

This is waaaay wrong from what I should be seeing. Do I still need to connect one of the stator output wires to ground even when connecting it to a rectifier? Right now I have both the green and White/Yellow wires connected directly to the rectifier, with no ground in between. However, the wiring diagram for the BRP shows the green connected to ground as well as the original regulator.

Oh, and to top it all off, somehow the lights and signals worked before I did this. Should they have worked on AC power? I guess if the original headlight and tail light worked on AC then the new ones I've got on there should too. The horn never worked from when I bought it (I'm guessing the horn wouldn't work with AC power).

Any advice welcome!

I had similar problems, my bike was a US import just basic lights etc. I added a rectifier and struggled to get a 12vdc horn to work....lack of volts. Luckily a friend swapped my loom and stator for a UK spec loom which solved all my problems + added indicators and brake lights which was a bonus.

Found a potential solution at the end of this thread: http://www.xr650rforum.com/t1098-rewound-stator-voltage-output

Still open to suggestions, but I'll try hooking the battery up and see if it makes a difference.

Nathan,

Couple of things possibly wrong:
- if you've got AC AND DC then you have the Grounds interconnected.... which is a nono, you should (read: MUST) keep them electrically apart. Usually (mind, not always) it's best to ground the chassis for the AC, and keep the DC-ground afloat (wires only), to any part that need DC-grounding. When the grounds are 'mixed', like I suspect is in your case, you'll see "half" of the DC-voltage, around 6VDC - and this you sortof report is happening.
- also, it could be that your stator itself, the windings, ground to the engine - pls check? I know you rewound yourself but it's possible, and this aint any good. Also, for others, the older ElectroSport stators have this built-in, and this is a bit of a problem when you want dual (DC & AC) outputs, also so when you want to use dual Rect/Reg's, the latter impossible actually.
- any DC-reg needs smoothing, by cap or by battery. No real need to have both but it is beneficial - so if you've got space enough get both.
- on batteries, make 200% (yes, doubly!) sure the batt is fine FIRST!!! A shot batt will cause all sorts of false readings, too low voltages most common.... and this is what you have in the first place.

But I bet you've got the two grounds mixed up. Fix that and you'll be fine

As an advanced warning already, do NOT use either the standard or any aftermarket-DS loom as the carrier for the main currents, the wires are simply too thin. Use a relay (with the correct ac or dc coil, remember pls) for feeding the large users, like headlight or heated grips or why, and string your own (fused!) conductors for these.

Re-reading yours Nathan:

- definitely do not ground any of the stator wires!
- forget about any existing Pig wiring diagram as you now have a bigger stator, especially so when you will have both AC and DC regulators, or 'worse'(not actually), dual DC-reg's.

You also do not mention if you rewound for a single or dual stator-output:
- if single, you use it for both AC and DC? If Yes keep the grounds separate!
- if dual, what do you do with both outputs? If one AC and one DC keep the grounds separate!!!!

Only DC-reg's need a cap and/or batt for smoothing, and some of them may be finnicky to supply a 'smooth' voltage (which also depends on the loading - duh). But voltage-wise they will be there, unless you messed the grounds together.
And, some DC-reg's require the cap/batt to be connected to a separate wire (as the only termination!), this contrary to others who will have a common wire (load + cap/batt).

Hey, it could be that you messed up your stator winding, but only you will know that???

Thank you to all who have posted here to try to help me out. Turned out that the guy who posted on the other thread (about needing the battery connected to the rectifier) was right, and I also had my master switch connected incorrectly. These two problems together were pretty frustrating.

Anyway, I really appreciate the help, and have learned quite a bit from your posts regardless of what the actual problem turned out to be. I do know I won't ever ground the AC & DC together!

Hello Kris I wonder if you did fix your problem?