UNCORKING THE XR650R
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UNCORKING THE XR650R
GDAY IM NEW TO THIS SITE im from victoria australia
i own a 2003 650r, just recently had the suspension done as for im a tall bloke and now i want to uncork the bike does anyone have a rough price on the parts required for this , that would be fantastic ,
does anyone also know where to buy these parts online thanks any help would be appreciated cheers
sam
i own a 2003 650r, just recently had the suspension done as for im a tall bloke and now i want to uncork the bike does anyone have a rough price on the parts required for this , that would be fantastic ,
does anyone also know where to buy these parts online thanks any help would be appreciated cheers
sam

xrmoochy- noob
- Joined: 2010-07-22
Posts: 5
Location: vic , australia
XR650R Year: 2003
Re: UNCORKING THE XR650R
About a 1100 Bucks for a Full race header pipe and muffler unit, Aussie built staintune stainless steel, that makes the old girl get up and go, Gives the XR R a nice deep exhaust note also,no to loud, i put a K-N air filter on her as well, enjoy, there aint many of us aussies on here hey, more the merrier !!

Chrimsey- noob
- Joined: 2009-09-23
Posts: 44
Location: West Australia
XR650R Year: 2000
Re: UNCORKING THE XR650R
Brucy & Brucey
say again?
K&N filter??
Don't tell me that's a cotton-gauze filter pls?
Because IF so you'll fornicate your engine! Cotton gauze will flow more air yes, but at cost of filtering, it lets enormous amounts of dust through.
Hey, OK if you're a supermoto on tarmac - but not in the dirt.
say again?
K&N filter??
Don't tell me that's a cotton-gauze filter pls?
Because IF so you'll fornicate your engine! Cotton gauze will flow more air yes, but at cost of filtering, it lets enormous amounts of dust through.
Hey, OK if you're a supermoto on tarmac - but not in the dirt.

BuRP- XRR Freak
- Joined: 2010-10-18
Posts: 402
Location: Pretoria South Africa
XR650R Year: 2007
Re: UNCORKING THE XR650R
BuRP wrote:Brucy & Brucey![]()
say again?
K&N filter??
Don't tell me that's a cotton-gauze filter pls?
Because IF so you'll fornicate your engine! Cotton gauze will flow more air yes, but at cost of filtering, it lets enormous amounts of dust through.
Hey, OK if you're a supermoto on tarmac - but not in the dirt.
Hey Burp...what filter do you use in your pig? I read that K&N was crap and didn't really fit without loads of grease. I also read that twin filter was a good choice for our beast. What are your thoughts??

JimmyO23- noob
- Joined: 2010-12-13
Posts: 28
Location: California
XR650R Year: 2000
Re: UNCORKING THE XR650R
Jimmy,
various opinions exist on this subject, obviously from different people as anyone is different, so make up your own mind as the choice (and the bike
is entirely yours!
I actually own a K&N filter..... but it's fitted in my trackday bike, for the exact same reasons I mentioned. More air (hence more power possible), and bugger the extra dust because the environment it runs in has little anyway. Oh yeah, I've never cleaned it yet, for reason they filter better when dust settles on them (really, no joke).
I only don't like the fit of the original Honda filter (of our Pig), as I've got no doubt it will filter well. Whilst the airbox is equipped with a profiled groove the OEM filter does not cater for this at all, hence has to be greased all round to ensure a better seal (than when without any grease). This I consider a 'patch', and found out better exists - a UNI filter.
A UNI comes with a moulded profiled "rim" which fits very well into the airbox's groove. Also, this filter is a dual-layer one, fine inside, coarser out, and therefore the total surface (for clinging dirt to) is more than the single fine layer the OEM filter, a single layer of even finer foam, provides. I believe (never seen one yet) that the TwinAir filter is built similar, worth a look at if you can.
Oh, yeah, I do grease this rim also - better safe than sorry
Mind, also a UNI can be improved on! That moulded-on rim is made out of dense black foam (a 3rd layer actually), and this 'rim' I cut (scissors) narrower (read:less-wide, as it is too wide) to increase the total area of the finer foam viewed from the inside. I take the 'cross-member' (when you've got this filter you'll see what I mean by this) out entirely as it a) sorta 'masks' a relatively large area, and b) does zilch, and in doing all this I end up with a waaaay bigger filter-area on the inside - which means the filter's efficiency has become better, and it will last longer too.
3 things though:
- Do not ever leave the metal screen out! This supports the large filter-surface and prevents it from bending inward, when allowed to this will cause leaking and/or tearing of the filter.
- the OEM metal screen is restrictive as it is very fine, you can't really see through it even! It may act (I dunno) as a flame-arrestor when backfiring, but mine doesn't - so I have replaced this screen by a waaaaay less air-restrictive screen from XROnly. This is a perforated steel screen which flows lots more, and some have complained it does not fit well. It doesn't indeed, you will have to squeeze it it, but then it will stay right there too, swap filters without even toughing this thing - a perfect fit if you ask me.
- a filter is only as good as the oil used. There's even more of these available, ditto opinions, so you may well want to use whatever you already do. But you asked me - and I only use what I think is the best, the Bell Ray blue goo. Own a number of filters, clean, dry & oil them and let them cure/set horizontally, store them each in a ziplock-bag, and merely swap them in the field rather than mess there.
Not a requirement per se but a handy tip: oil the entire inside of the airbox too (not the cover)! This will allow you to check if anything did go past the filter, as it will collect dust - which you will see when you wipe this surface with clean toilet paper. Yes, a bastid to clean (once a year!), but worth it in my opinion.
But as said, all this is my personal opinion, decide for yourself what you like best.
NB: for those changing from the OEM-screen to a higher-flow screen they may have to re-jet! I did mount one simultaneously when uncorcking, and still have to decide if my jetting is best (for me, I live at a rather highish altitude) but will visit lower one's too)
various opinions exist on this subject, obviously from different people as anyone is different, so make up your own mind as the choice (and the bike
I actually own a K&N filter..... but it's fitted in my trackday bike, for the exact same reasons I mentioned. More air (hence more power possible), and bugger the extra dust because the environment it runs in has little anyway. Oh yeah, I've never cleaned it yet, for reason they filter better when dust settles on them (really, no joke).
I only don't like the fit of the original Honda filter (of our Pig), as I've got no doubt it will filter well. Whilst the airbox is equipped with a profiled groove the OEM filter does not cater for this at all, hence has to be greased all round to ensure a better seal (than when without any grease). This I consider a 'patch', and found out better exists - a UNI filter.
A UNI comes with a moulded profiled "rim" which fits very well into the airbox's groove. Also, this filter is a dual-layer one, fine inside, coarser out, and therefore the total surface (for clinging dirt to) is more than the single fine layer the OEM filter, a single layer of even finer foam, provides. I believe (never seen one yet) that the TwinAir filter is built similar, worth a look at if you can.
Oh, yeah, I do grease this rim also - better safe than sorry
Mind, also a UNI can be improved on! That moulded-on rim is made out of dense black foam (a 3rd layer actually), and this 'rim' I cut (scissors) narrower (read:less-wide, as it is too wide) to increase the total area of the finer foam viewed from the inside. I take the 'cross-member' (when you've got this filter you'll see what I mean by this) out entirely as it a) sorta 'masks' a relatively large area, and b) does zilch, and in doing all this I end up with a waaaay bigger filter-area on the inside - which means the filter's efficiency has become better, and it will last longer too.
3 things though:
- Do not ever leave the metal screen out! This supports the large filter-surface and prevents it from bending inward, when allowed to this will cause leaking and/or tearing of the filter.
- the OEM metal screen is restrictive as it is very fine, you can't really see through it even! It may act (I dunno) as a flame-arrestor when backfiring, but mine doesn't - so I have replaced this screen by a waaaaay less air-restrictive screen from XROnly. This is a perforated steel screen which flows lots more, and some have complained it does not fit well. It doesn't indeed, you will have to squeeze it it, but then it will stay right there too, swap filters without even toughing this thing - a perfect fit if you ask me.
- a filter is only as good as the oil used. There's even more of these available, ditto opinions, so you may well want to use whatever you already do. But you asked me - and I only use what I think is the best, the Bell Ray blue goo. Own a number of filters, clean, dry & oil them and let them cure/set horizontally, store them each in a ziplock-bag, and merely swap them in the field rather than mess there.
Not a requirement per se but a handy tip: oil the entire inside of the airbox too (not the cover)! This will allow you to check if anything did go past the filter, as it will collect dust - which you will see when you wipe this surface with clean toilet paper. Yes, a bastid to clean (once a year!), but worth it in my opinion.
But as said, all this is my personal opinion, decide for yourself what you like best.
NB: for those changing from the OEM-screen to a higher-flow screen they may have to re-jet! I did mount one simultaneously when uncorcking, and still have to decide if my jetting is best (for me, I live at a rather highish altitude) but will visit lower one's too)

BuRP- XRR Freak
- Joined: 2010-10-18
Posts: 402
Location: Pretoria South Africa
XR650R Year: 2007
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